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Quest Vest: A Cropped, Hacked FibreMood Irma/Papercut Luna Mashup
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The Quest Vest is my third attempt at the “perfect” quilted vest. You can see my Kochi/Luna quilted vest hack here, and my reversible FibreMood Irma here. I was also inspired by this quilted vest Hinterland Dress hack, for its closer fit and its pretty, neutral palette.
There’s nothing wrong with my other versions, but because of their length and oversized fit, they only work with certain outfits (pants). I frequently wear harem pants, dresses, and skirts. In those outfits, I want to feel like I’m wearing a blanket without LOOKING like I’m wearing a blanket. I took my favorite features of each inspiration vest and made the Holy Grail of quilted vests – a more fitted version with a higher collar and a wrap front with tie closure.
Ever since I was a little girl I’ve struggled with my perfectionist inability to translate my ideas into reality. I remember when I was a kid someone saw my artwork and commented that it was amazing that I could see something in my head and then put it on paper. I think I said thank you, but I was silently screaming, the idea in my head was so much better than what you’re looking at!I also find truth in what Elizabeth Gilbert says about ideas – inspiration comes to you and if you don’t use it, it will leave you and go to someone else.All that to say, some version of this idea has been in my head for years, but fear of failure (and maybe also my feelings about mockups) had prevented me from getting started.
There were a growing number of little drawings on scraps of paper and in my inspiration notebook featuring variations on the vest that up until now, lived only in my head. Then, my littles spent a week with my mom and dad this past month. I determined I was going to use my quiet house to full advantage and finally draft the pattern I had in mind.I started with my FiberMood Irma pattern and finished vest. On my new version, I opted for no pockets to reduce bulk and because with the shorter length they didn’t seem necessary.
I tried my Irma bodywarmer on and figured out how much ease I wanted to remove, then traced the pattern with the changes onto Swedish Tracing Paper. I removed 5-6 inches from the length, eliminated the pockets, and added a center back seam to aid with fitting. I did a typical-for-me high round back adjustment, and removed a LOT of ease from the back at that center seam, tapering in at the waist and generally fitting the rounded slope of my natural posture. I raised the armcye by over an inch, and raised the collar height as well. Since the back was significantly narrower after my alterations, I kept the width at the top of the new collar and tapered it down to fit at the new neckline, making the collar stand up and out a little more.I traced the ties from the Luna jacket pattern, and freehanded the wrap front. I made a mock-up out of a thin cotton that would become the lining. I took it in even more at the center back based on the mock-up, and cut out my fashion fabric. I lined it with cotton batting, and hand quilted it with sashiko thread in an ombre of colors from cream to rust. I also hand sewed handmade batik bias binding down toward the rust side where the stitching would be less visible.
In a fit of excitement near the end of the project, I trimmed a loose thread carelessly and cut a hole in a finished part of the binding. There is nothing quite like mending something you have never worn. But I like the character of the little patch I added. I’m already considering a second Quest Vest with a black side, a totally wild lining, and a more cropped length. Perhaps doing something creative with the back like a deep notch at the back bottom, a quilted harlequin design, or a couple of layers of fabric fish scales along the hem?
I eliminated the FibreMood Irma sleeve pattern piece for this version, but I would definitely consider adding it (or another similar looking detail) to a future version. It was easier to bias bind the armcye this time, and even without the fancy cuff, the bodywarmer looks great. In the end, the only part of the vest that is the original Irma is the collar seam. I’m so pleased with the result. It wouldn’t have been possible to make it if I hadn’t made my other versions first and figured out what I wanted and what worked practically.
You can find out more about the Metamorphic Dress I’m wearing underneath the body warmer here.