As always happens at our house, after I successfully made Six his 1860’s jacket, his brother wanted one, too. And since Four had already been waiting for me to make him a bigger vest since the last one was a mite too short, I figured I’d make him a matching set.

I already had a yarn-dyed linen/cotton blend in my stash that I wanted to use – the color is called spice, and it’s exactly the same color as Garam Masala. No matter how I tried, I couldn’t get photographic proof of this. The focus and lighting always made them look slightly different. I had enough Indian spice-colored fabric to make a jacket and vest. I used my size 7 suit vest pattern again. I slashed the pattern pieces in two places and added about a full inch of ease, and some length, since my son felt his last vest was too small.

I cut the jacket and vest pieces out at the same time so I wouldn’t have to do any figuring twice. This ended up being a little bit of a problem, since the jacket could have been a bit bigger than the vest, which had a bulky quilted layer.

I used 1860’s family portraits to help me draw the hem and neckline for the vest. I made the lining of the vest with a pre-quilted cotton/poly blend for warmth. The back of the vest is white cotton broadcloth, in keeping with vests of the era, and I used the Chaplain’s vest pattern’s welt pockets for the front. Like I did with his brother’s jacket, I rotated the shoulder seams over to the back of the vest and jacket.I found the fantastic metal shank buttons for the vest at the craft store. I used a kit to make fabric-covered shank buttons for the jacket. I had to use a double layer of fabric in order for the metal button form not to show through.

I made the jacket using similar methods to his brother’s, but like so many projects, while his brother’s jacket flew together without a hitch, I ran into every road block with this jacket.

I don’t even remember half of the hiccups, but there were plenty. I had to let out all the seams to get it to fit over the vest. The front pieces weren’t wide enough. The one part that went more smoothly with this one is the collar – I drafted a completely new collar this time, hoping to avoid the floppy dog ear effect I got with the last collar. I did manage to get more symmetrical results this time. I ended up hand sewing the collar. My thread color wasn’t a perfect match, and if I tried to machine-stitch in the ditch from the outside, it would have shown.

I lined the jacket with a beautiful cotton batik fabric for the same reason I chose a bright fuchsia calico for his sister’s dress – because my little man is dressing for history but not a slave to it, in the most literal sense. I snuck a hidden pocket into the inside flap of the jacket for utility. If I had it to do again? I’d have done facings for the inside edges of the vest so the white lining wouldn’t have shown on the outside. The same treatment wouldn’t have hurt on the jacket, either. I also might have lined the jacket so it would be warmer, either with a third layer, or with a thicker lining.

My son thinks the jacket is a bit on the small side. Clothes were more fitted back then. I think that’s all it is. He wore his new set to the Christmas Eve Mass at church and looked quite handsome. Because it’s cotton and linen, the jacket isn’t as warm as his brother’s, but it looks great, and I’m sure it could hide a few layers underneath if we needed it to be warmer. Plus, his vest is quite cozy and provides added warmth.I’m still hoping to get photos of everyone together in their period garb, but for now, this young man shines all on his own.

My favorite use for garam masala? Cauliflower and Tofu with Tikka Spices. Maybe I will share my favorite recipe someday. If you aren’t into tofu, you could easily substitute chicken or goat.